Thursday, September 3, 2009

Not cut out to be Ghanaian

1. Old Bob is the gateway to good food and local celebrities

As it turns out, Old Bob does have fairly good food – hands down the best meal I have had in Ghana thus far (though after you read insight #3, you will see is not really saying much). After braving unbelievable traffic, we arrived at the restaurant and were introduced to the owner, Angela. When asked for recommendations, she told us that Bob’s seafood was the best in Accra and probably in all of West Africa - a claim that I could not let pass by. My seafood platter was pretty good but I could have done without the deep fried baby barracudas.

In addition to raving about her seafood, Angela also raved about her brother Fritz, a member of parliament in Ghana and the man who gave Obama the tour of the former slave holding facility at Cape Coast, Ghana during his visit in July. We were rather impressed, and my professor said “wow, I would love to meet him and hear his stories.” Angela gave him a ring and as we were finishing dinner Fritz walked in just in time to sing happy birthday to me and watch as I blew out the candle on my fried ice cream (delicious). He then shared a drink and many insights about Obama’s visit, Africa and the world (he liked Michelle best). Fritz has his hands in a number of different activities from entertainment to health care to politics – as he spoke I wondered if all his stories were true. How could such an important man randomly show up to chat with a few American tourists at his sister’s restaurant? I googled him and found that indeed, he was Obama’s guide at Cape Coast. I got his card - organic networking at its best.



2. Ghana is Obamarama

Speaking of Obama, remnants of his July visit are everywhere in Accra. As you drive through the streets you see huge billboards welcoming him. Just like Kenya, there are Obama trinkets for sale in all of the markets including art, bags and t-shirts. At first I thought that the merchants were just trying to take advantage of ignorant American tourists, excited by seeing their President’s image on souvenirs, but then I saw the woman below at the market yesterday, decked out in her Obama gear. Obama is kind of a BFD.



3. Sad tummy = sad Jess

It has been nearly two weeks now since I left home and homesickness is beginning to surface. After some contemplation, I blame it on the food. Unlike Kenya, everything in Ghana very oily, vegetables are nearly non-existent and the fish is inedible (for me), as it has not been de-boned. Beyond just not tasting that great, the food has also left all of us with upset stomachs (or worse). It is sad but true that my mood is dramatically altered when my stomach is not happy. I am starting to become anxious to go home, longing for my own bed, a turkey sandwich, a chocolate chip cookie and a bowl of broccoli.


4. Opportunities to purchase random crap are everywhere


Although we are saving many of our Ghana tourist activities for after the program is over, we did find some time to go in town yesterday to visit a couple of markets. On the way to the market we had to drive through dozens of hawkers, selling goods to the cars passing by. “Would you like a screwdriver? No? How about a rubik’s cube? No? How about a painting of the last supper?” The most random mix of crap I have ever seen in my life – highly entertaining.

After getting through the hawkers, we arrived at Makola, the largest market in Accra. Makola started off okay as we visited a couple of stands offering fabrics and jewelry but quickly went downhill. Somehow we ended up in a claustrophobia-inducing maze of fish, shrimp, giant snails and pigs’ feet. The smell was more than I could handle and I nearly had a panic attack when we could not figure out how to get out. Despite my horror, I am glad we went so that we could get a look at where locals shop and what they eat. I have no intentions of going back though, ever.



After a rough experience at the Makola market we asked our taxi driver to take us somewhere a bit more “touristy”. He took us to a much more open market that had jewelry, wood carvings and art. We were all were able to find a few things to buy here although overall I have been disappointed that there does not seem to be any items of higher quality for purchase. I am afraid that most of my purchases will fall apart in short order. Perhaps we are going to the wrong places – I hope we can find the “right places” before we leave. My Ghanaian cidis (the local currency) are burning a whole in my pocket.

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