Monday, August 31, 2009
A Change of Scenery
On Saturday night after the graduation dinner we went out one last time in Nairobi. My colleagues had dancing on the mind and were determined to find it. We visited a bar called “Afreak” (clever) and then a club called “Black Diamond.” I had fun people watching but I am not much of a dancer (unless I am heavily intoxicated) and was not a fan of the male attention that I received–flattering but quite uncomfortable. My birthday is tomorrow and although I would typically have “big plans” I told my colleagues that I was not really interested in clubbing in Accra after my Nairobi experience. This was validated when we asked a local what to do in Accra and he told me that there were a lot of clubs in town where he “holds women close and dances vigorously.” No thank you.
2. My happiness is relative to the speed of my internet connection
We flew into Accra, Ghana yesterday afternoon. I am happy report that there were no unaccompanied minors nearby, just a screaming baby – I really cannot win. Despite the noise, exhausted from a long night out in Nairobi, I managed to sleep for most of the 5-hour flight. First impressions of Ghana are good – there is a lot more vegetation here and everything is very green as it is the rainy season. Although we will miss the Olive Gardens (it grew on us), we were all happy to arrive at the Executive Hostel at the Ghana Institute of Management and Public Administration (GIMPA) where we found clean, spacious and modern rooms, complete with an internet connection that moves at light speed (at least compared to olivenet in Kenya). Finally, I was able to call home without a delay and clearly seeing my girlfriend’s face on video chat really made my day.
3. HIV/AIDS is not the only crisis that we are combating in Africa
From the giant mounds of rice, potatoes, meat and vegetables that we receive on our plates each meal, you would never know that there are millions of people starving in Africa. Now, before you accuse me of being ignorant, I do realize that we are in a controlled environment and are not really witnessing what and how much most people eat in Africa but it is still quite surprising. Last night we had a buffet dinner at the Ghana opening ceremony, we sat with a couple of the locals that work in the Public Relations at GIMPA. One of them was extremely thin and I was shocked when he came back from the buffet with a towering plate of food. We all agreed that there was no way that he would finish it. He laughed at me and told me that HIV/AIDS was not the biggest problem in Africa, it is malnutrition, and he was conquering it, singlehandedly.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
It's a wrap in Nairobi
1. Al Jazeera is really just like CNN
4. Sometimes the wrapping is more precious than the present
The evidence
5. The white girl dance is even whiter in Africa
Me with one of my participants
Friday, August 28, 2009
Inspiring, random, and awkward insights from Nairobi
1. The show always goes on in Kenya
I have been very surprised by how flexible the people here are. We have experienced more technical difficulties and disruptions than I can count. The participants in the program seem to just roll with it, without complaining. In one minute I tell them to work in the website, then the internet goes down and I tell them to work in a soft copy offline, then the power goes out and I tell them to work on a hard copy. If this had happened in the United States our participants would have screamed mutiny. In Africa they just smile and continue working diligently. One of the professors said it best when the power suddenly went out during her lecture, “We will continue, even if the lights go out. We will always continue…”
Our main job in Africa is to help Management Development Institute participants develop a HIV/AIDS Community Health Improvement Project. We run nightly workshops and provide feedback on their plans as they are being developed. Yesterday, a team of participants from Somalia explained the challenges they have with getting their services to some rural HIV/AIDS patients. As MBA students our first thought is “why don’t you implement a project to take your services to these patients?” Their response, “it is too dangerous!” We forget that the solutions that work in the United States will not always work here - you might get shot.
Swahili and English are both regarded as the “official” languages of Kenya, but after spending a week here it seems that the two languages have merged to form a single primary language, which I have affectionately nicknamed Swahilish. This is particularly evident when listening to Radio Jambo, one of the local radio stations. Yesterday morning en route to the training facility, a Whitney Houston song came to an end (90’s pop is the hottest thing here in Nairobi), the DJ uttered a series of words in Swahili and then completed his sentence with “she is still a diva.” Amazing.
I was somewhat certain that I would lose weight while in Africa but it has become clear that will not happen and in fact I might be gaining weight. The food is abundant at every meal and for the most part, delicious. I have been enjoying various kinds of cooked vegetables, potatoes, beans and rice. The meat is quite plentiful but for the most part I have stayed away from it because 1) The fish has little bones it, 2) the chicken is still on the bone, which I have irrational issues with, and 3) mammals are still off limits, even in Africa. My favorite thus far has been cooked plantains but I must be careful - yesterday I was informed that they “make women fat” (not sure if this means have no such impact on men). One consolation is that the desserts here are less than stellar; Kenyans don’t seem to have big sweet tooths and typically enjoy fresh fruit after their meals. I have avoided the fruit because it looks really sad compared to what I am used to in California and I am told that it could have parasites – not my idea of a good time. Even though I have been skipping dessert more often than usual, I am more than making up for those calories with our nightly Tusker tradition, which continues, in case you are concerned.
5. When all else fails, eat Papaya
On the topic of Tusker, last night we had our first opportunity to go out on the town and experience some Nairobi nightlife. We had dinner at a very nice restaurant, Tamambo, and then went to an expatriate club called Havana. The patrons of both the restaurant and club seem to be either foreigners or from the Nairobi upper class. It was nice to have a more upscale night in Nairobi (although it is not really hard to be more upscale than a night at the Olive Gardens).
Thursday, August 27, 2009
A ghetto safari
Yesterday, we got to take a break from sitting in on classes and engaged in a few tourist activities. We wanted to visit the local National Park - 117 square km of wild Serengeti animals. There are many safari companies that do half-day safaris in the park but these options were a little pricy for the likes of cash-strapped students. We spoke to one of the locals that we have been working with to see if there were cheaper options available. Luckily, he arranged a driver to drive us through the park at a significantly reduced rate. The driver pulled up in a circa 1992 Toyota Corolla. Initially, I did not think much of the car, but when we arrived at the park and saw that most of the other vehicles were 4 wheel drives, I was slightly concerned. We had quite a bumpy and dusty day in our little car. At one point we had descended into a canyon and were trying to get back out on the other side. The driver had to make a few attempts but, finally, after he backed up, reved the engine and charged up the hill, we made it.
Beyond having an appropriate vehicle, it might have also been somewhat beneficial to have a driver who actually knew his way around the park. We got lost several times and for some reason, the driver thought we (the tourists?!) should have been paying attention to where we were going. We were in a bit of disbelief when he asked us if we knew how to get back to the gate. He just kept shaking his head saying “How are we lost - we are four?!” With less than a quarter tank of gas left, the prospect of being stranded on the Serengeti in a Toyota Corolla with broken windows was a bit frightening, but eventually we navigated ourselves out of the park.
My heart stopped a few times and I am fairly certain that the driver’s suspension is completely shot after the journey but I would not change a thing. We have a story to tell and saw more wild animals close up than I could have imagined. The baboons were my favorite; they swarmed one of the picnic sites and found their way into the trash. Some were licking paper plates and others were trying to get any type of crumbs out of empty bread bags. Suddenly, two males began fighting over a female that was obviously in heat as evidenced by her “fancy butt.” I may have screamed a little and run back to the car but I enjoyed the experience nonetheless!
3. For some, I am the most exotic thing at the zoo
After finding our way out of the National Park we visited the nearby “Animal Orphanage.” The so called orphanage was really nothing more than a zoo designed to draw in tourists that do not know better, but I am still glad that we went. We saw a lion try to attack a boy who had found his way over the first of two fences to take a closer picture. He screamed and ran as the lion charged up behind him. Somehow the experience was both horrifying and hilarious. Later we found a group of naughty school children that had given a monkey a sucker – seeing a monkey eat a lollipop is one of my favorite images of all time. Finally, our guide introduced us to a monkey who was not in the cages and enticed him to mount our heads and shoulders with peanuts. Again, a horrifying yet hilarious experience.
Although there was a plethora of exotic and entertaining animals in the orphanage I found that most of the patrons were much more interested in staring at me. I venture to guess that they have probably seen a lot of monkeys, lions and hyenas in their time but very few white girls. Unfortunately, none of them asked for my autograph.
4. Kikuyu is not a term of endearment
There are a total of four teaching associates here from UCLA, three of us are white and one black. It is clear that three of us are a bit out of place in Nairobi but my black colleague just might be able to pass for a local (assuming she changed her fashion habits and was mute). One of the men in our program told her “I almost thought you were Kenyan but then I saw you walk”, then someone said “Just tell them you are Kikuyu,” and everyone around giggled. We know that Kikuyu is the largest tribe in Kenya, but she shrugged the comment off for a couple of days, not really knowing what was meant by it. Yesterday, she finally asked our driver and he got a very embarrassed look on his face. Trying to be as nice as possible he said, “the Kikuyu women stand on corners.” So basically, they called her a whore (and all before she had two beers and a cigarette), nice.
5. Ignorance really is bliss
After breaking the ice with her question about Kikuyu, our driver decided it was his turn to ask some hard questions. He asked her if white people were angry with her in America. Somewhat confused, she said “not really angry…” and then he responded with “Everyone is angry here.” It was somewhat surprising to hear this because most everyone seems quite cheerful most of the time.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
The bars may close but the blogs must go on
1. You can count as many people as you want but do not deprive me of my beer
2. "Flying Toilet" is a technical term
- The culture here is reversed – women leave the toilet seat up for the men
- Health and sanitation reasons that have become a part of the culture
- The women are not used to having a toilet seat and feel more comfortable using the restroom with it up
My rather blunt colleague attempted to get the real story today from one of the locals but when she asked the woman just laughed and immediately turned to her friend and giggled several sentences in Swahili (about how ridiculous we are, I am sure). So, the jury is still out.
4. We are not in Los Angeles anymore Toto
More tomorrow.
Monday, August 24, 2009
A coffee drinking, treadmill running, paranoid American, clearly not on her honeymoon
- She proclaimed that I should not be washing my face with the tap water because it might get into my eyes. She brought 12 huge bottles of water from the US for the sole purpose of washing her face and brushing her teeth. My eyes have felt dry and itchy all day.
- Water got on her lips during a shower and she immediately doused them with hand sanitizer – I thought this was silly but I must confess that when a little water got in my mouth during my shower this morning I jumped out and gargled with Listerine.
- Last night at dinner I had a glass of passion juice with my meal, when I told her this I thought she might fall on the floor. Apparently I am not supposed to have any fruit, including juice. My stomach felt uneasy most of the night.
- Today was the first day that we have actually seen mosquitoes flying around. Despite the fact that I have been taking malaria pills and I have no bites (yet), I have been strangely itchy all day (and so has she).
- Bottles for beer and soda are reused here in Kenya – I had no idea until last night. Today, I used a straw to drink my bottled Coca Cola.
4. You can call me a crime against nature
More tomorrow.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Conclusions from the first 48 hours
1. Having frequent flyer “status” is akin to being a rockstar
It has been over a year since I left Deloitte but I still have “Premier Executive” status on United Airlines through the end of the year (a small token of a miserable 6 months of flying between California and Pennsylvania). This status enabled my colleague and me to upgrade to more legroom during our 10-hour flight from LAX to London. Working my status made me feel fancy (no, it does not take much).
2. Children should never fly alone on international flights
… or at least not those that I am also on. My rockstar status evaporated once we arrived in London and had to transfer to Kenya Airways for the next leg of our journey. Three unaccompanied minors were seated behind me and after only an hour of giggling, fighting and nonstop seat kicking I found myself asking “who sends their child to Kenya alone?” The next seven hours were some of the more miserable in recent memory – not even pain pills and wine helped to make it more bearable.
3. I love Tusker
After over 24 hours of traveling, we had a short list of priorities when we finally landed in Nairobi, drinking being the first on the list. Upon arrival at our hotel we set our bags down and headed straight to the downstairs bar. We ordered the local lager, Tusker, and I must say I approve, not only of the taste but the giant bottles it is served in.
4. I also love the internet
Our hotel in Nairobi is called “Olive Gardens” despite the fact that it has no gardens or all-you-can-eat meals of soup, salad and breadsticks. It is not fancy (nicknamed “Hotel 6 – Nairobi” by one of my colleagues) but is kind of cute and does have most of the necessary modern conveniences including wireless Internet. After fulfilling our first priority of beer, I returned to my room and worked on my next set of priorities. First, I connected to what is likely the slowest high-speed Internet connection known to man. Despite this speed, my love for the Internet holds strong. I was able to call my girlfriend for free via Skype. The delay was a little ridiculous, but hearing her voice from thousands of miles away was quite amazing. Next, I called my mom– being a little less savvy about the delay, she hung up on me. I emailed her instead. Thanks to Al Gore and his Internets, my mother knows I am safe.
5. Lady Gaga and Beyonce rule the world
The familiar voice of Lady Gaga was somewhat soothing as I rode on the shuttle bus between terminals at the London airport. I felt as though Lady Gaga was my traveling companion, with me almost everywhere I go.
Lady Gaga in London did not seem that out of the ordinary, but waking up in Nairobi to Beyonce and her “Single Ladies” was strange but yet, again quite comforting.
6. I am really white
I know what you are thinking. Yes, I already knew I was VERY white before arriving in Africa but from time to time I forget. I was reminded while walking through Nairobi this afternoon (with two other white girls and a black girl who is quite the snappy dresser). Total show stoppers.
More tomorrow.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Much too old for a fake ID
After I started my job with Deloitte in 2004 I found I had very little time to take care of any personal business but somehow I managed to find one morning where I would have enough time to get a California Driver's License. Early that morning, I rolled out of bed, threw a t-shirt on and raced to the DMV in hopes of missing the crowds. I barely passed the written test (who knew that you had to take a written test), took my photo, and waited two weeks for my new license to arrive. When it finally came, I regretted not taking the time to at least comb my hair before rushing off that morning.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Out of Africa
About a week and a half ago I finished the first part of what has turned out to be a simply amazing summer internship. I am a teaching associate for the Johnson and Johnson/UCLA Anderson Executive Management programs. During the first six weeks of my internship I worked at UCLA Anderson with executives and managers from Community Health and Head Start organizations around the United States. My job was to teach and assist these professionals as they progressed through two-week intensive management programs but in the end, I feel that the participants gave much more to me than I did to them. I have been inspired by their incredible passion for what they do and the populations they serve.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
My One and Only Visit to the Principal's Office
Recently I was reminded of the day that forever tarnished my record as a “good kid.” It was the last day of 6th grade and I was overjoyed that I would be leaving Arroyo Verde Elementary School for the much bigger and more important world that awaited me in the halls of Cope Middle School. The morning progressed as expected, with various end of the year games and fun activities. Suddenly, a messenger entered the classroom with a note summoning me to the office of Mrs. Carol Purvine, Principal.